(25) The Sky is the limit

6 04 2011

Having survived the Death Road I was looking for new challenges and I was about to find one near La Paz. But we will come to that further on in this entry…
Before I went to see some Wrestling in La Paz. But not some usual Wrestling, but Cholitas Wrestling involving women fighting in their traditional outfits. As I have never seen Wrestling live, it was interesting to see, but I guess it is a little bit too simple-minded to draw more attention to me than for this one visit.

damnilost

The guy just lost his wrestling match, but what is he doing now??

So as I said it was time for a new challenge. And this one presented itself in climbing the mountain Huayna Potosi – lying at an altitude of 6088 metres – to be done within 3 days.

The first day consisted of getting the equipment, driving to the base camp at 4700 metres and practicing on a glacier the skills needed for getting to the top. Well actually most of those things ended up not beeing needed, but all in all it helped to get accustomed to the equipment.

ready

Are you ready? I was born ready!

The second day consisted of walking up to the second camp lying at 5300 metres. It involved carrying all the equipment in (and outside of) my bagpack, which made it quite heavy:

packed

Carrying that uphill, lots of fun 😉

Having done that it was time to relax a little and enjoy the views. And relaxing was very necessary as we had to get up at midnight to start climbing to the top. But who can sleep at 6 pm and at this altitude? I can´t and so the task of climbing the mountain had to be approached without sleep.

Anyway me and my guide walked for about 5 hours during which my speed decreased continously due to the altitude and the resulting lack of oxygen. At the beginning the rhytm went like step, step, exhale, step, step, inhale while at the end it was more like step, exhale, inhale, break, step, exhale, inhale, break. Anyway we arrived a little bit too early in my opinion at the top at 6 am and were waiting for the sun to show up. But how nice was it to be at the top! 6000 metres is a real freaking height and I am not sure if I will ever do it again, but it was all worth it, even if I was feeling the effects of those efforts for some more days in my body.

welcome

Welcome to the internet mountains, I´ll be your guide!

huaynapotosi

On the top of Huayna Potosi

guitar

Time to celebrate!

didit

Been there, done that…

creep

I thought I had to show you the nice outfit I was given to

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(24) Mastering the Death Road…. twice!

29 03 2011

Arriving in Bolivia I spent one day in Copacabana, situated on the bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. It appeared nice, but I wanted to move on, so the next day I continued my journey to La Paz. During that we had to cross the Lake:

ferry

There it goes

La Paz shows an interesting scenery. It is the highest capital in the world – lying at 3600 metres of altitude. And it is full of taxis and minibusses.
Also it is the starting point for a really thrilling adventure: Going down the so-called Death Road by mountainbike. This road leads from La Paz to Coroico and received its name as a consequence of various accidents occuring there. The road is very narrow for cars and falling off will result deadly. As a result of all those accidents the government has built a new paved road. The old road is now just used by mountainbikers and their escort vehicles.
So there we were going that road downhill for some hours and having great fun. I might want to add that for people knowing how to ride a bike the road is not that dangerous as for a bike there is always enough space.
The only bad news was that the majority of the pictures taken by the tour agency suck as the guy handling the camera did not seem to have the best clue of doing that.

Oh yes and regarding the title: Our bus driver seemed to have been suicidal and took the Death Road back up to La Paz (and not the paved road as all the other vehicles did). Our hearts froze when suddenly a car going down showed up in a turn. Well, it passed us and we arrived in La Paz unharmed but still it may have been a better idea to pick another agency for this trip, who knows how to take pictures and how to guarantee for more safety.

deathroad

Some part of the death road

biker

You’re doing it wrong!

careful

Good to be small sometimes

grouppic

The only showable group picture

survivor

Enough said

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(23) Ruins reloaded

25 03 2011

What was missing in my discovery of Peru were two places, which many may consider its highlights: The ruins of Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. But first things first:

From Arequipa I went to Cuzco on another night bus. Unfortunately they had to repair it all night long (oh yeah) and so I arrived with quite a delay. Bad luck continued when there was no water in the hostel, so I had to walk 100 metres to another hostel to take a shower. Time to move places, but afterwards it was all fine. Cuzco has some nice places and nice bar areas for the night and its central square is kind of interesting, as you will be approached all the time by people trying to sell you massages, alpaca sweaters or paintings.

To get to Machu Picchu I took the budget version: A series of bus and taxi rides (involving travelling in the trunk for a while, which was not too bad actually, as we had to look backwards -> „Wow, did we just pass that turn??“) followed by a 2-hour-walk along the railway took us to the village below the ruins, Aguas Calientes. From there we walked up in the morning in heavy rain to the ruins. But it was all worth it as it is just a marvellous place up there. Walking around all day including climbing the Huayna Picchu (the mountain, which you usually see on the background of the typical Machu Picchu photo) we were lazy enough to take the bus down and the train (first train ride on this trip) back to Cuzco.

maletero

Travelling in the trunk: We had not as much space as it looks like here!

rivercrossing

The rainy season affects many roads

breakfast

Never forget Breakfast!

pandora

It’s not always sunny in Machu Picchu

huayna

On top of Huayna Picchu, the ruins being in the background

The city of Puno, which is situated next to Lage Titicaca on 3800 metres of altitude, was the last destination in Peru. From there I took part on some island trip. First we passed some floating islands, which are still inhabited by some indigenous people called the Uros:

fishy

What a nice lookout point

From there the boat took us to the islands of Amantani and Taquile, where you could have beautiful views of the Lake. All those islands get kind of touristy, but who can blame that as it is the only way for the people living there to make any money.

arco

How do you build that?

fly

Testing some functions on my camera

treasure

Someone wants to have a look, if there is a treasure hidden at that point in the lake?

titicaca

You are beautiful

Having returned it was time to approach the border. Before I discovered that when I was entering Peru, the officials had only given me 30 days of visa. I was surprised by that as I have a right up to 183 days. Well I could not extend it and as I had stayed 41 days in Peru, I had to pay 1$/extra day and spend 1 extra hour at the border. Could have been worse, so all OK.

One last thing I want to share: On the way to the border, we passed a truck which had crashed. There were already lots of people surrounding it to watch the scene (not to help). But to my surprise the driver of my bus wanted to have a look as well, stopped the car and said „Ok guys, let’s all go watch the accident.“ Besides one guy who had to watch his little kid I was the only one who refused to take part in that activity. Voyeurs!

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(22) Elections!

21 03 2011

Toledo, Keiko, Castañeda, Ollanta, Kuczynski, Nique, Rodriguez, Belaunde, Reymer, Pintazo and Noriega. Who are these 11 people? No, it is not the peruvian national soccer team. (Of course you knew that as there is no Pizarro on the list.)
It’s the 11 candidates who want to become the next president of Peru. The first round of voting will be on the 10th of April. After this date the 2 candidates with the most votes will run in a second round for presidency.
Having travelled a lot through Peru I could not miss the ongoing election campaign and I want to point out in this entry some interesting aspects.

First note that in Peru you don’t have the right to vote, but the duty to do so. If you fail to do that you gotta pay a certain amount as a penalty. As a consequence for the campaign the candidates also try to win the people who don’t care. The best way to do that seems to be to flood the whole country with advertising. But they usually don’t do it with posters, instead they paint „XY (Insert preferred candidate here) presidente“ on all the houses. Or some rocks in the middle of nowhere. Note that as there are some illiterates in Peru, it is also important to put your symbol down there. Now the strategic choice of a symbol can be quite important: You want to have one which people can easily remember and recognize. Toledo has a T, Keiko a K, Ollanta an O and Kuczynski PPK (that are his initials). Only Castañeda wants to have it complicated and has chosen a sun.

Not surprisingly the candidates with the most advertising are favorited right now in the elections. Let’s look closer at the first 5 right now, the others don’t really play a role for the outcome.

The last presidents of Peru have been: Garcia -> Fujimori  -> Toledo -> Garcia . Fujimori is now in prison for crimes he committed during presidency. Interestingly enough his daughter Keiko has announced to get him out of prison, should she win the election. For me such an announcement would make somebody impossible to vote, but Peru seems to have a different opinion as she is on second place in the surveys right now.

The favorite right now is Alejandro Toledo who was president before. And he proposes the same things he did before and which he did not achieve: plenty of jobs, cheap products, new hospitals, new railroads. So why would it work this time?

Castañeda was the mayor of Lima before. I don’t really know what his goals are, but seeing his face on television a lot, he must have gotten a facial lifting for sure :-).

Ollanta is the nationalist candidate, who is very popular in the south of Peru. That is where he also does most of his advertising. He is a buddy of venezuelan president Hugo Chavez and his political agenda reflects that.

Kuczynski is also known as the gringo, as he also got a US citizenship. He is the oldest candidate, but surprisingly his campaign is approaching the young people of Peru. Funny thing he actually wants to have a youth ministry. Not hard to guess whose votes he wants to get with that proposal.

So to put it simple, all candidates suck. But I guess it’s like that most of the time and you gotta choose the least evil.

The campaign itself is quite similar to Germany. The candidates tour around the country holding speeches everywhere. The way they do that though reminds me more of a rock concert. No wonder each candidate has his own song praising him. How do I know that? Well, there are for example cars driving around playing these songs super loud all day. Appears to me like brain washing. Well let’s see who does that best!

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(21) Sandcastles in the sand

10 03 2011

How else would I title my last week, which I mostly spent in the desert?
First stop was the little beach town of Paracas in order to visit the Islas Ballestas. They are also called „Galapagos of the poor“ which I think is a great name marketing-wise.
Getting there you pass a thing called the candelabra, which is supposed to have its origin around 200 B.C. What its purpose was is still left to speculation.

candelabra

Your theory?

Getting to the islands you are suddenly surrounded by lots of birds and sealions.

sealions

The big ones are males, the middle-sized one females and the small ones are babies

Occasionally you can also spot some penguins:

penguins

Discussing the way to Madagascar?

Next was the Oasis of Huacachina which is surrounded by sand dunes on all sides. What an astonishing view!

huacachina

Huacachina

The place is also known for its Dunebuggy-/Sandboardingtours and I of course had to try that as well. The Sandboarding turned out to be sledding using a Skeleton technique. Once we stood up on a rather small dune but as nobody had snowboard experience those tries were not that successful to say the least.

lordoftheboards

The new sandboarding sensation from Germany

inaction

And here he is in action

Talking about the dunebuggy I felt quite insecure in it. It was like a rollercoaster ride but with a seatbelt that would fail any security test. Also the intention of the driver seemed to be to risk as much as possible without crashing. To our buggy nothing happened but another one was not that lucky. We saw it flip over during our tour and the next day it came to my notice that the driver of that buggy actually did not survive that accident…
The hostel I stayed in had a Wii gaming console and for the first time ever I got to play Guitar Hero. Kind of nice when you „play“ a guitar solo but it does not have much to do with playing guitar. I wonder how many 10 year old Jimi Hendrixs we would get if they could make a game where you actually had to do the same things as with a guitar.

From Huacachina I went to the city of Nazca in order to take a flight over the Nazca lines. Those are a set of geoglyphs in the desert whose purpose is still unclear. But apparently the price had nearly doubled within the last year, the reason being enforced security regulations after some accidents which occured previously. Considering the experience in Huacachina I had I guess its the right thing to do but anyway I decided to save myself the money. Having relaxed a bit of the various journeys the last days I continued to Arequipa. Lastly some advice: Don´t visit Nazca on sundays. Apparently there is a power failure nearly every sunday.

Arequipa turned out to be one of those cities where you cannot do too much when churches don´t interest you. But interestingly the garbage truck drives around using the ringtone I had on my mobile phone. I wonder how they can bear hearing that the whole day as I would turn crazy at some point I guess.
Arequipa is a good starting point for visiting the Colca Canyon, which is said to be the second deepest canyon in the world (And no, the deepest one is not the Grand Canyon but another one pretty nearby the Colca called Cotahuasi Canyon.). It turned out to be a day of mainly bus rides with a 4 hour-intermezzo at the Canyon waiting for Condors to show up.

condor

El Condor pasa

A way to use waiting time:

steinmensch

Inka-Jenga or as we say in Germany „Einen Steinmenschen bauen“ 😉

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